the
PAST

It’s
fair to say that Alchemy has always kept one step
ahead of the competition by keeping one skeletal foot
in the past. In the company’s 1970s pre-history,
Geoff Kayson, model maker and enthusiastic teenaged
member of the punk cult, and his brother Trevor, a
self-taught sculptor and artist, were then the newest
subculture to hit Britain’s high streets. But
they combined this punk passion with an incongruously
arcane interest in medieval and military history.
Indeed, in its first incarnation, Alchemy began as
a military antiques and war-games emporium known as
Reider’s Axe, which in turn manifested as Alchemy’s
first fully-fledged design, an ornate pewter battleaxe
pendant bearing the same name. Alchemy’s earliest
designs were crafted using a mixture of traditional
techniques and ad hoc technology in another reminder
of our military past, in the shape of an Anderson’s
air-raid shelter in the shop’s backyard, which
became Alchemy’s first workshop in 1977.
It was a step
up from the company’s embryonic beginnings,
when the two brothers had taught themselves to make
lead castings over the single-ring stove in the
corner of Geoff’s bed-sit, and which included
fantasy dragons, etc, and then culminated in bootleg
Sex Pistols badges. In true punk style, the brothers
were crafting cash from chaos, but punk’s
crass and crude style proved limiting to their developing
design skills, and it was time to expand both professionally
and creatively. In 1979, Alchemy was approached
to produce badges to promote the band Whitesnake’s
new album, featuring the notoriously phallic ‘Lovehunter’
design, which they duly crafted in all of its lascivious,
3D glory. It proved an influential success. Back
then, T-shirts were the only thing to be found on
band merchandise stalls – Alchemy led the
way in introducing the bewildering range of licensed
products the faithful can now purchase to demonstrate
their dedication to their musical idols.

By
1980 punk had peaked and was petering out, but new
subcultures were on the horizon. Punk’s sulky,
more urbane younger sister Goth soon began making
her presence felt in Britain’s towns and cities,
and these new children of the night found Alchemy’s
building range of jewellery perfect for accessorising
their funereal fashion statements. Britain’s
heavy metal subculture first found a voice in 1981
when Kerrang! began publication, and UK’s
metal legions soon embraced Alchemy’s brand
of medievalism and Gothic fantasy with enthusiasm.
Alchemy’s more aggressive accoutrements also
found favour among the UK’s outlaw biker scene,
who’d finally found a voice when Backstreet
Heroes magazine first hit the racks in 1983. Almost
everybody who wore a black leather jacket in the
80s, when that alone was still enough to have you
barred from many British pubs, will recognise Alchemy,
whose ubiquitous advertising helped support the
magazines, that in turn fed the UK’s vibrant
alternative scene.
By
the mid-80’s, Alchemy had outgrown their original
small shop premises and extended curiously sideways
by knocking through into several old, adjacent buildings.
This was followed by a further expansion into some
additional, nearby, canal-side workshops, before
the studio, factory and warehouse developed yet
further and combined into their present premises
by Leicester city’s southern perimeter. Alchemy
is an authentic English success story. What had
begun as a scheme by a couple of unemployed Leicester
kids in order to raise enough cash to expatriate
to Benelux had blossomed into the leading firm in
a market which they, in effect, had created themselves.
While in 1977 there was no alternative jewellery
market as such, Alchemy’s success has inevitably
since inspired imitation. As their customers became
more discerning and demanding, Alchemy’s growing
team of designers and craftsmen welcomed the challenge
of developing new lines and products to ensure that
Alchemy continued to lead the pack. In particular,
Geoff and Trevor indulged their love of history
and design in conceiving and crafting new pieces,
combining modern ideas and techniques with ideas
and designs drawn from the distant past. This is,
perhaps, also the secret of Alchemy’s success
– a company at once reverential of traditional
values of service and craftsmanship, but at the
same time constantly reinventing itself, innovating,
and evolving in order to remain relevant and vital.
For more information contact: gavin.baddeley@blueyonder.co.uk
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